Rudyard Kipling called the Schwedagon "a beautiful winking wonder", and it really is a magical place with a bell-shaped superstructure covered in 60 tons of gold leaf. On top are gold and silver bells studded with rubies, sapphires, topaz and diamonds. At the six-storied Kyaukhatgyi Pagoda, you see a huge (over 200 feet high) reclining Buddha. This temple also doubles as a monastery and is a center for the study of Buddhist manuscripts.

You check into the Strand Hotel, in the city’s best location across from the Yangon River, near the British and American embassies. This legendary establishment was built by the famous Sarkies Brothers (Raffles in Singapore is also their design). It has hosted royalty and such notables as Rudyard Kipling, Somerset Maugham, and U.S. President Taft. The sweeping porte cochere opens to a stunning three-story marble-floored atrium capped by a lovely stained-glass ceiling. Your individual luxury suite has fine laquerware and local handicrafts set amid grand teak furniture and period architecture. (B,L,D)

Today you visit more of this city of contrasts with its mixture of colonial history and Buddhist heritage. You visit the National Museum to see exhibits of belongings of the last two kings of Myanmar, including the 26-foot-high gilded Lion Throne.

You go to Scott’s Market, built in 1926, named after Mr. C. Scott, the Municipal Commissioner of the city at the time. Nowadays, it is called Bogyoke Aung San Market in honor of the late national leader, General Aung San. Here, you find 1,600 shops selling beautiful lacquerware, gold-threaded embroidered cloth, handicrafts, foodstuffs, clothing, and jewelry.

This evening, join your travel companions for dinner in the classically elegant dining room at the Strand, which serves local and international fare. (B,L,D)

Today, you fly to the former royal capital of Mandalay; this sprawling cultural center is the most "Burmese" of Myanmar’s cities. Upon your arrival, you board the new luxury cruise ship managed by the Orient Express Group - "Road to Mandalay". This cruise ship once sailed the Rhine River; after being completely renovated in 1995, it was brought here to provide the most luxurious mode of travel on the Ayeyarwady River between Mandalay and Bagan.

You have lunch on board the ship and then tour the city. Mandalay was the last capital of Myanmar before the British imposed colonial rule in 1886. You see the moated grounds of the Royal Palace. It was the last surviving example of royal Burmese wooden buildings; sadly, it was destroyed during WW II. The present government has partially reconstructed it, which gives you some idea of what the original structure was like. The few remains salvaged from the old buildings are on display.

Near one of the stairways to Mandalay Hill, you visit the Kuthodaw Pagoda. Large carved teak doors painted a rich vermilion open onto a gallery and a small gold-topped stupa. Row upon row of white miniature pagodas cover the 12 acres of the temple’s shaded grounds.

The Kyaukdawgyi Pagoda is adjacent to the same Mandalay Hill stairway, and here is the renowned Buddha image carved from a single block of pale green marble. It was roughly hewn in a quarry a few miles north of Mandalay; and a canal was dug specifically to bring the 800-ton figure to Mandalay. It is said to have taken 10,000 men two weeks to drag it to the pagoda. At the Zegyo Bazaar, you see metal ware and Burmese silk, as well as local produce for sale.

Do try the fruit called mangosteen, which has five white segments inside its hard purple shell; a touch of tart and a touch of sweet, it has a wonderful, delicate flavor that reminds one of apple with the smooth texture of ice cream.

On board the Road to Mandalay, you have your own luxurious en-suite cabin with all the amenities of larger cruise ships – restaurant, lounge, bar, boutique and observation deck. This evening, you dine in the Pagoda restaurant decorated with stunning carvings and paneling. Talented local chefs prepare a sumptuous menu offering local specialties. (B,L,D)

Your breakfast is served onboard before you make an excursion upriver to Mingun. You see the 90-ton Mingun Bell, constructed for the Mingun Pagoda. It is said to be the largest uncracked bell in the world. (The largest bell in the world, although flawed, is in Moscow.) The main attraction here is the Mingun Pagoda; had it been completed, it would have been the largest in Myanmar – 465 feet high.

Returning for lunch onboard the Road to Mandalay, spend a relaxing afternoon on the sun deck, or swimming in the pool, as you cruise the Ayeyarwady. This river is Myanmar’s main communications artery and was known as the "Road to Mandalay" by British colonists. Rudyard Kipling wrote of this: "On the road to Mandalay/ Where the flyin’ fishes play/ An’ the dawn comes up like thunder outer China ‘crost the Bay!" The river essentially divides Myanmar in two; originating in Tibet, it is joined by the much smaller Chindwin River south of Mandalay. Before it reaches the sea, it divides into the sprawling delta region – one of the richest farming areas in the world. (B,L,D)

You arrive in Bagan and breakfast before disembarking to tour the city. Bagan was founded in 849 AD at a strategic location on the banks of the Ayeyarwady. The site was considered to have considerable mystical significance because it was close to Mount Popa, the most important center of spirit worship in Myanmar, which pre-dated the arrival of Buddhism.

For over two hundred years, from 1057 to 1287 AD, the Burmese kings held court here. The city was sacked by Kublai Khan in 1287 AD and was never rebuilt; today it is one of the most significant archaeological sites in all of Asia. There are 2,217 pagodas still standing and another 2,000 ruined temples – all the remnants of Myanmar’s architectural Golden Age. Once there were probably thousands of palaces and houses, but because they were built of wood, all have long since rotted away. Today, it is a deserted city of fabulous brick temples and pagodas. You visit the most famous Ananda Temple, distinguished by its golden stupas. After lunch, join the afternoon sunset tour of Bagan before returning to the ship for the evening. (B,L,D)